Category: Books

Book Review – The Big Book of Weaving

11/202021
Big Book of Weaving

The Big Book of Weaving – Handweaving in the Swedish Tradition: Techniques, Patterns, Designs and Materials by Laila Lundell has been my reading selection for the past few weeks. There are books that you speed through and they give you great ideas. This is a book that is perfectly suited for winter months when you can take time to digest a section before moving on to the next.

As an experienced weaver, I was not sure that this book would have many surprises for me. I was wrong. In each section I was able to pick up a new tip or trick that I had not yet tried.

The book is a wealth of information for weavers making use of Swedish style floor looms, there is an excellent write up of dressing a floor loom using the front to back method in which the weaver pre-sleys a reed instead of using a raddle.

Laila also describes in detail the hanging of counter balance horses, as well as detailing the set up of lamms and tying them up.

There is also a great explanation of how to adjust the shed on a countermarche loom.

This book has often been used as a textbook for new weavers wanting to know how to get started with their first floor loom. The project sequence starts from the very beginning using plain weave and moves through pattern weaving. The author presents both 4 and 8 shaft projects for each type of weaving.

Projects that I found quite interesting – “Kitchen Towels with Small Blocks” that can be woven with 16/2 cotton. In this project Ms. Lundell also offers a complete project plan for weaving the bands needed for hanging towels. A great mystery solved!

I found her explanation of reading and writing warp sequences helpful for planning striped warps. She also explains how to adjust these sequences to meet the needs of your loom width and your particular project.

If making a drawdown from your draft is difficult there is also a easy to understand section in the book that describes in detail how this process is completed.

The most stellar explanation for me as an experienced weaver was the section on warp spacing where she explains how you can use multiple ends in warping at one time and how they are to be pre-sleyed into the reed so that you do not need to cut ends or use a raddle to spread the warp.

The author also discusses Rag Rug making and planning and loom set up in detail. If making a rag rug for the first time you will want to review this section before setting up your next project.

There is a section on Warp printed fabric, in which she discusses materials for the dye, and the process of applying the color to the warp in detail. This is a planned future project for me.

I was fascinated by the Inlay weaving technique descriptions:
• H-V Technique
• Russia
• Dukagang
• Small and Large Dots
• Loop Technique
• Kilim
• Crabba
• Half Crabba

There are also detailed instructions on how to make use of a cartoon on a floor loom.

The author explains the use of a temple and the problems that it can solve for you.
The book contains detailed instructions on how to construct measuring templates for pattern repeats and for plaids.

This is a book that I expect weavers will consult often.

Best Quotes:
“Weaving truly is a big journey of discovery!”

“Choosing the right materials for a weaving takes a lot of knowledge. It’s a good idea to train your eyes and fingertips to become familiar with various materials and to learn about their special qualities”

“Producing and comparing a variety of swatches, some good an some not-so-good, will help you tremendously when you plan a new project”

Project Summary:
Kitchen Towels with Small Blocks
Striped Kitchen Hand Towels
Twill Rag Rug
Striped Pillows
Color-Effect Mohair Throw
A Small Alpaca Throw
Small Reverse-Treadled Rag Rug
Cord-Striped Bags
Checked Fabric
Long Table Runner in Rep Weave
Large Checked Rep Rug
Rosepath Band
Cotton Summer Curtains
Bags with Bead Panels
Large Alpaca Shawl
Decorative Rosepath Weaving
Boa with Rya Knots
Slit Rya for a Bench
Dice-Weave Pillow
Double Width Throw
Decorative Weaving with Paper Yarn
Paper Yarn Screen
Warp-Printed Fabric
Half-Linen Mats
Inlay Rag Rug
Old-Fashioned Weaving
Rag Rug x 2
Bathroom Mats
Alpaca Scarf
Four Decorative Sample Strips
Transparent Interior Furnishing Fabric
Furnishing Fabrics x 2
Room Divider
Cotton Baby Blankets
Linen Table Runners and Hand Towels
Coordinated Furnishing Fabrics
Colorful Pillows
Picnic Blanket
Woolen Baby Blanket

Link to The Big Book of Weaving on the weaving resources page:
https://historicweaving.com/wordpress/weaving_resources/the-big-book-of-weaving

Book Review – Next steps in weaving

10/052021

Today, I completed my reading of “Next steps in weaving” by Pattie Graver. I am glad that I picked up this book at my local library because I found it to be filled with a logical step by step process of learning about structures using a 4 shaft table loom.  The Book covers Twill, Color-and-Weave, Overshot including Mok’s Belt, Summer and Winter, Lace – both Atwater Bronson and Huck.

In each chapter Pattie explains the new structure in detail and presents both a sampler project and a functional project for the weaver to complete. The samples are going to weave up in an afternoon or evening, the projects will take a bit longer. The goal of the book is to have the weaver get used to making samples that are completed separate from a project warp, and are used to explore the inner workings of pattern design possibilities using only changes in structure.

Best quotes:

I became a “weaver”; that is, before I was able to progress from “knowing how” to “knowing why”.

My desire to get weaving was far stronger than any longing to understand weave structures.

You’ll gain experience much faster by working on smaller piece and you’ll have fewer surprises when you do move to full projects.

 

Projects:

Scarf of Lucky Colors

Hydrangea Bouquet Scarf

Contemporary Overshot Towels

Summer and Winter Placemats

An Atwater-Bronson Lace Table Runner

 

The project that I will be completing from this book are the samplers. I have been weaving on 8 shafts or more for a while I have yet to explore all of these structures on a 4 shaft loom.

My favorite project to try will be the shadow weave. In this book Pattie Graver provide a very thorough explanation  of how Shadow weaves can be created from twill drafts. I have not seen this type of explanation before.

Link to Next steps in weaving on the weaving resources page: https://historicweaving.com/wordpress/weaving_resources/next-steps-in-weaving-what-you-never-knew-you-needed-to-know

Book Review – Spin to Weave by Sara Lamb

09/302021
Spin to Weave - Cover

I have a need to learn more about hand spinning for a planned handwoven project.  I went to my local library and found this book to use as a reference. Things I like about the book,

There many tips and hints on handspinning fiber for weaving – there are a number of projects with details on how to spin the yarn and how to set up the loom, and further how to assemble the project which include patterns, and sewing instructions.

The book also contains plans for a PVC yarn blocker made from 3/4″ PVC pipe.

Noteable projects, I would like to try:

  • Tibetan Jacket
  • Hooded Scarf
  • Kimono
  • Half Damascus Edging

 

Favorite quotes from the book:

“Spinning yarn for weaving is no more difficult than any other spinning. Take the time to spin & weave as often as your schedule and interest allows and make samples with your yarns.

There will be times when your yarn doesn’t function as well as you would like or doesn’t look the way you imagined, but the more projects you spin and weave, the more successes you will have. Make lots of samples.

Make lots of things. Look critically at your work. Make more. And, as if by magic, one day you will realize that you know just what yarn you want to make, how to make it, & how to weave it into the perfect cloth.”

 

“There is no substitute for doing the work.

No talking about it.

No wishing or thinking about it.

No reading about it.

No journaling about it.

No daydreaming about it.

No repeating truisms will teach you what the fibers have to say,

Nothing beats doing it!”

 

Thank you Sara Lamb

 

 

Here is a link to the Weaving Resource page for the book, you can find it in your local library or via a ecommerce retailer like Amazon.

https://historicweaving.com/wordpress/weaving_resources/spin-to-weave

 

 

 

 

Update from the Historic Weaver

05/012020
Weaving Glossary Cover Page

It has been a busy couple of months here at Historic Weaving. There are many changes to report. The biggest of which is what adjustments necessary to continue to carry on my research and the sharing of the information that I learn while weaving.  While we as a country began social distancing, I retreated into my studio which is located in my home. During this time I wove, learned and pondered about what changes are needed to be able to continue moving forward with my mission of sharing my knowledge of weaving and its history with the public.

Prior to the pandemic, I had begun teaching in local adult (continuing) education programs in schools in Gallatin County. I believe that over time I will be once again permitted to continue using this venue, as my class sizes are smaller (maximum of 4 students) and able to meet social distancing requirements (groups smaller than 10). In the process of developing instructional materials for my workshop students I discovered that there was no simple weaving glossary that I could use to get a new weaver started weaving. I have compiled one and have listed it in my shop for download. The fee for this item is modest, only $2. just enough to cover the cost of hosting and the fees to required to accept electronic payment for it.

In my weaving glossary I use pictures where they will have the greatest impact, and have sorted the words into context groupings that will make it easier for people to look them up.

Click here to purchase and download the Weaving Glossary.

 

Rigid Heddle Band Weaving

03/202013

latvian woven bandBeautiful bands with a thousand uses. Many cultures weave bands but few weave them with the style of Scandinavia and Latvia. The materials needed to weave these bands are simple and readily obtainable. double rigid heddleThere are groups dedicated to this type of weaving. The Braid Society in Europe and TWIST in the United States.

On the society websites you can find galleries of woven bands and instructions on how to get started weaving in this tradition. I also found a course being offered by the North House Folk School in Minnesota in May of 2013 that you may be interested in taking if you are in the area.

While the bands are traditionally woven on backstrap  looms they also can be reproduced on a standard loom if you happen to have one handy. sash upper The image on the left is  a Latvian design that I wove in a wide band on my AVL loom. The most important consideration  to remember is that a pattern thread is twice the thickness of the ground thread. A traditional belt, band or sash is often woven using wool. My experiment was woven in cotton.

I have also been able to weave this style of band on my Morgan loom without using a rigid heddle or tablet cards.

smDSCF2358

I was able to make use of red and white beads to identify pattern threads and modified my draft to make weaving easier for me.

DSCF2477DSCF2461

 

 

 

Here is a copy of the draft that I made for weaving the belt.

BELT1.xlsx

Books:samibandweavingcover

 

 

Video Tutorials:

Weaving Library

03/192013

double etoffe à navette copierThe Weaving Library website is a European version of the Handweaving.net  for silk and dobby weaving. If you are into looking at antique and modern silk weaving and  learning about textile analysis which included photos of swatches of the weaving drafts, this is the place. A good percentage of the material is presented in French and will required knowledge of european drafting methods, but there are areas in which you can find English translations. The site appears to serve historians, and commercial weavers alike.  The site offers some PDF files of original texts for download many of these are in French. My primary interest in the site is to continue to get inspiration for historic drawloom weaving.

Favorite Scandinavian Projects to Weave: 45 Stylish Designs for the Modern Home

03/172013

I went to the local library a week ago and I found this little treasure. Because I have a Glimakra drawloom I was very IMG_2846interested in this book. Hints and tips from the writers of VAV Magazine are ALWAYS welcome. Was I delighted when I opened IMG_2838the cover to browse through the pictures. None of the projects are overly complicated. And some of the treasures include how to weave a hammock,  make european style linen towels with the woven loops, and a striking striped summer “light” blanket. While the threads are not ‘translated’ it will be easy enough to make use of of Handwoven’s thread guide to find our American equivalents.IMG_2841

I am most interested in the hammock project as I have always wanted to make one for my house.  I can’t wait for a sunny day and a glass of lemonade and my sunglasses!

Favorite Scandinavian Projects to Weave

Author / Editor: Ignell, Tina    Publishing Location:   Publication Date: 2008

Publisher: Trafalgar Square  Pages: 128p

Periodical Title:   Volume:   Issue:

Description of Contents:

Creating handwoven textiles for the home is a time-honored tradition and one any crafter can enjoy. If you wish to truly tailor your home decor, let this book lead the way. It features : 45 unique projects developed and tested by professional weavers — Step-by-step instructions, charts, illustrations, and color photos — Work with linen, half-linen, cottolin, wool, paper, and piassava — Versatile ideas for pillows, throws, rugs, curtains, table linens, and more — A special section on textile care and handling.

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Inkle Weaving

03/162013

One of the most important books on handweaving by Mary Meigs Atwater. In it you will learn the basics of inkle and tablet weaving.

Byways in Hand-Weaving

Author / Editor: Atwater, Mary Meigs    Publishing Location:   Publication Date: 1954 and 1988

Publisher: Shuttle-Craft Books  Pages: 128

Periodical Title:   Volume:   Issue:

Description of Contents:

Traditional patterns from around the world for small or off-loom weaving. This book, which has been used extensively as a reference for some obscure techniques includes information on equipment and materials, as well as drafts and designs for card, inkle, and a variety of belt loom weaves. Twining, including Maori and Persian, and braiding and knotting techniques from India, Egypt, China, Peru, the Philippines, and some Neolithic times are included. There are card-weaving patterns and techniques from Egypt, Finland, and Armenia. Included with “inkle” weaves are those from Europe, as well as some Navajo and Mexican weaves, and those from Central and South America. Estonian and Peruvian bag weaves are compared. Other little-known weaves included are that for an African girdle found in the Atlas Mountains, a Scandinavian warp-faced weave, and some Egyptian warp-faced weaves, including the draft for the so-called “Girdle of Rameses”.

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Cardboard Loom Weaving

03/162013

Cardboard loom weaving is an inexpensive way to get started weaving. Your material costs are very minimal, and even young children are able to participate. Weaving is an activity that can easily occupy a restless child on a rainy afternoon. The added bonus is that you can make something both beautiful and useful.

My favorite book about cardboard weaving is:

Weaving on Cardboard: Simple Looms to Make and Use

Author / Editor: Alexander, Marthann    Publishing Location:   Publication Date: 1972

Publisher: Taplinger  Pages: 88

Periodical Title:   Volume:   Issue:

Description of Contents:

Instructions for constructing and using simple looms made of easily obtainable, inexpensive cardboard to introduce weaving to those inexperienced with the craft. While many of the instructions are for weaving with a needle or varieties of finger weaving, there are also instructions for building and using weaving cards.

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Tartans

03/162013

Tartans are a big hit around St. Patricks day, this book will guide you through setting up your loom and weaving traditional tartan plaids. Scotch tartan setts: A Shuttle-Craft Guild guide for weaving 132 traditional plaids.

Scotch Tartan Setts: a Shuttle-Craft Guild Guide for Weaving 132 Traditional Plaids

Author / Editor: Douglas, Harriet C.    Publishing Location:   Publication Date: 1949

Publisher: Virginia City, Mont.: Harriet C. Douglas  Pages:

Periodical Title:   Volume:   Issue:

Description of Contents:

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